Robot repair protocol
This
is BASIC and simple service procedure outline when you receive a
ETW-18 or an ET-18 HERO-1
robot.
NOTE:
Heathkit robots of any type are NOT toys. They are essentially a Vintage
computers. They can harm you or a child if left powered on and
unattended.
A
must : You must obtain all the
ETW-18 manuals you can find .Never assume the robots is in good order and NEVER
turn it on until you have learned a little about them. Understand the startup procedures in the Technical Manual
& Users Guide .
NOTE:
This is just a BASIC brief outline I use to ready a ETW_18
to study and evaluate further.
Essentials:
Users Guide: Technical Manual: Arm Manual : Programmers Guide.(See site books)
(These
will help you get through most of the basic troubleshooting and diagnostics)
You
will need a VOM meter and an oscilloscope to test the sonar transmitter ect.
When
I receive an ETW-18 , I first familiarize myself with the Robot in the Users
Guide & check the wiring & troubleshooting charts, with the Technical
manual on hand, as well as a good visual check of the wiring. The whole robot
should get a good visual going over. Spend an evening and read the manuals
before you use the robot. Check what’s what and where parts are located ect.
If
you can get a little idea of the” theory of operation “later, that’s
great!
If
you receive an ETW-18 that means, it was wired at the factory (W) not a home
builders kit ET-18 (Found on head
cover label and body panels).
In
which the latter may be more difficult to diagnose because of cold solder joints
ect. , that are very common with home builder kits.
Inside
the robot you may see metal upgrade tags from the factory. You can refer
to our options section for more details on what these
mean.
Does
it have upgrades like the robot serial interface? Maybe a remote set up? Maybe
someone left an experiment on the breadboard? Check these things out.
#1
Do not apply
power!!.
Check all connectors and the wire harness, test fuses and check alignment of all
heat sinks and transistors and any potential bad contact on robot boards. I have
found bent heat sinks and voltage regulator pins ect, that touched and created
semiconductors and shorts. Small fragments of aluminum can creating problems, as
well as damage from shipping ect. Bent wheel brackets, loose contacts ect. (Look
it over thoroughly!)
#2
Remove all external boards from the buss. Some of these robots have sat
idle for many years, clean contact pins from the buss and replace boards. (Check
for bent components on each board and insure proper placement and alignment of
buss contact connectors inside robot and from I/O to CPU ect. (I've found
problems here. Don’t forget to Ground him!! As well as yourself too with a
wrist strap)
#
3 Test power supply. and the Molex connector wire for proper voltage output
25VDC.
#4
I leave any dead batteries properly connected to the circuit as a power
buffer and for voltage spike prevention, until replaced with new batteries.
#5
IMPORTANT: The first thing to do when applying power to robot, Is to insure
proper voltage to the DC power supply board after removing all the fusses in
base plate. (See page 47 to 51) These should absolutely be set to proper voltage
regulation at 5.6 VDC. Test Logic batt side and Motor batt side. First. Ground
yourself ! Never touch boards or open buss connector’s ect., when power is on.
(Some later models do not have these adjustment capabilities, refer to picture)
#6
Once proper voltage has been established, replace fusses. Diagnostic
procedure and calibration on all circuit boards can proceed. (I spray electric
contact cleaner on the boards and let them dry. Then they look new again and the
spray cleans the DIP pins too without removing the ICs. But don't over do it!!
Light is right here.)
#7
Then refer to the Tech manual page 47 to perform all the robot diagnostics.
(DMM required) At this point proper board and sense calibration is done ect.
#8
WD40 is used to free up wheels and head bearings ect. I use lithium grease to
lube ARM
#9
ARM: Good Idea to read ARM manual to understand the stepper and Molex
connections. (Check for stop pins on ARM stepper motor shaft) Worm gear
adjustment ect. Check ARM for full range of motion and the 5 axis points.
#10
Use small startup programs to test sensors "Ready" and CPU Indication
mode is a good indication that the robot can now be fine-tuned. (I check Digi
LEDS and board LED indicators at 31 Exec mode test and calibration) Test learn
Mode 7 and Manual Mode 4,with teaching pendant.
#11
Let it run. I check for and excessive heat inside after 1/2 hr. in passive
standby Mode.
#12
(Test main drive Motor with robot suspended on blocks in all 6 speeds Fw Rev.)
#13
For replacement of body panels, apply a little Vaseline to the round rubber
grommets on chassis to insure they don’t snap off when removing.
Note:
This is just a simple guide. This site can’t be responsible for and damage
that can occur. It is intended for novice & semi experienced users.
You must refer to the Heathkit manuals for proper repair.
Please
remember: These Robots are some of the first artificial Intelligent entities.
They demand respect and preservation and are NOT considered super toys.
Please
read this website and related subject sites for further information.
Thank you SLYDER for this submission!